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2004 vintage report for Canberra (NSW/ACT)

The 2002-03 drought impacted hugely on production. The effects continued to influence the current growing season although 2003/04 got off to a good start with better spring rains than have been seen for some years. Subsurface moisture was assisted by regular rainfall and thunderstorms through until early December. Conditions shifted markedly, as they usually do, around Christmas, to become dry, warm and gusty, and there were no more really effective rainfall events before harvest. Most growers know to anticipate these conditions, with secure water to match the climate. Some, however, struggled and there were a couple who lost leaf. February, March and April were slightly warmer than average, and most growers reported normal harvest dates between the first week of March and second week of May. Vine canopies were stouter and denser this year; a stark contrast to last season. With more water from the sky and in dams to begin with, growers were able to regulate irrigation more easily—particularly from around Christmas until veraison when demand for moisture is in flux.

Most growers delivered clean fruit, with summer and early autumn too dry for significant disease concerns. There were a couple of isolated instances of powdery mildew, mainly in Chardonnay post-veraison. Tonnages were up, as the younger vineyards mature. The Canberra District has practically nil uncontracted vineyards, although reds are in mild to moderate oversupply (excluding Shiraz). Some growers are eyeballing the long-term viability of their varieties, with some topworking planned for coming seasons. Grasp of the performance of various Shiraz clones is at the stage now where, as finances allow, growers are grafting to better performing ones. The newest plantings reflect the bankability of Chardonnay, the proven regional performance of Riesling and Shiraz, and there is interest and a little dabbling in Pinot Gris, Viognier, Tempranillo and Sangiovese as sites deign appropriate.

Acid levels were slightly low, though much better than last year, and sugar accumulated easily. Pinot Noir and Chardonnay from the cooler, more elevated sites are looking good and Pinot Gris producers report the variety is coming ahead in leaps and bounds. Aromatic whites are the district’s big buzz, led by some great Rieslings and excellent Gerwürztraminer and Viognier, the latter two in smaller volumes. Sauvignon Blanc is looking good (not the easiest variety for continental Canberra). Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Bordeaux blends are subject to a little mixed opinion, but the producers with the longest district histories and vineyards on warmer, well-managed sites, are really excited about what’s now in barrel. Several producers are now developing rosé styles from various red varieties, and say that these forays have met with a good cellar door response.