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2004 vintage report for Murray Darling (NSW/Victoria)

From the unusually low-yielding 2003 season, the Murray Valley increased production by almost 30%, to a record 396,000 tonnes this year. Chardonnay maintained its position as the largest single variety, producing 97,000 tonnes. White varieties overall went to 230,000 tonnes, up from 172,000 tonnes. Of the reds, Shiraz accounted for almost 64,000 tonnes of a total red crush of about 166,000 tonnes. Cabernet Sauvignon came in second at 50,000 tonnes. The season had an inauspicious start, with a severe frost hitting on 28 September 2003. Some Chardonnay suffered badly, with Colombard and Sultana also affected. However, damage overall was relatively minor, occurring in pockets and not resulting in significant losses. The frost was followed by about 15 mm of rain in early October. More rough weather was to come, with storms lashing the region in mid November and bringing another 15 mm to 30 mm of rain. (At this point there was hope the drought had broken). While the rain was welcomed, strong winds and hail damaged some vineyards. More thunderstorms and rain occurred throughout the region on 4 December. Some areas recorded up to 50 mm of rain over two hours and minor hail damage.

Hot conditions prevailed around Christmas, but then mild weather descended and stayed for most of January. In fact, the average temperature of 30°C for the month was two degrees lower than usual. Mild conditions delayed the start of harvest to mid February, although some fruit was harvested early in the month for sparkling base. In common with much of Australia, the heat then hit with a vengeance, with above 40°C for five consecutive days in February. In contrast to the 2002 and 2003 vintages, evidence emerged of wineries anxious to ensure that intake targets were met. In past years there was an assumption that the fruit would be obtained without too much effort, but in 2004 more wineries were looking outside their contractual base to take in more, particularly Shiraz, Merlot, Chardonnay, Semillon and Viognier. But for the heatwave in mid February, it would have been a sensational season. For those using colour as a guide to red grape quality, 2004 was a standout year given that average colour scores were well above average. However, exceptional colour scores did not translate to exceptional prices, with red grape weighted average prices continuing the downward spiral of the past few years. Providing some balance were Chardonnay prices, which increased on 2003.