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"I didn't realise—couldn't yet see—how in all the arts there are usually two things going on at the same time: the desire to make it new, and a continuing conversation with the past."—Julian Barnes, Keeping an Eye Open (Knopf, 2015) The British writer Julian Barnes phrased it perfectly in expressing "a desire to make it new.” Although he is writing about art, it applies equally as well to fine wine.